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What is the best UV water-cooling coolant?

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Parge 12th March 2012, 08:36 Quote
JUST as I was trying to decide what to use..... You've come up trumps.
Baz 12th March 2012, 08:47 Quote
I've tried both pre-mix coolants and de-ionised water, and it's always been the price difference that's kept me using de-ionised. With some of these pre-mixed getting much cheaper though (Iremember paying £10/ltr for Feser One once), I think it'll be some UV fun for my upcoming loop rebuild.
Parge 12th March 2012, 08:55 Quote
I'm interested in using Blue coolant, has anyone found that this reacts well under UV or not?
bdigital 12th March 2012, 08:57 Quote
The coolant in my sig rig pics is EK. keep in mind though that when you light a uv reactive fluid up, it makes it look solid rather than transparant/see through.

Depends what look your after.
Spreadie 12th March 2012, 10:23 Quote
Another timely article, for me.

I'm fed up with Feser One gunking up my loop, and I'm looking for a replacement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baz
I've tried both pre-mix coolants and de-ionised water, and it's always been the price difference that's kept me using de-ionised.
What do you use with it, Harry? Inhibitor and kill coils?
Bloody_Pete 12th March 2012, 10:27 Quote
I still prefer the look of solid colour tubing personally, which is another test you guys should do as finding red UV tubing that glows red instead of orange is impossible!!!!

I really want some Mayhem's Aurora though!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spreadie
Another timely article, for me.

I'm fed up with Feser One gunking up my loop, and I'm looking for a replacement.


What do you use with it, Harry? Inhibitor and kill coils?
I just use a Kill Coil with mine and it's still perfect...
warejon9 12th March 2012, 10:28 Quote
Looking forward to seeing the temperature differences more than anything, colour doesn't bother me.
[ZiiP] NaloaC 12th March 2012, 11:31 Quote
The green Nanoxia looks lovely!

I have Feser UV red in my current build and whilst it will earn me disdain from many WC users out there, I haven't flushed it out in 4 years. Still runs like a dream with temps between 24-26 degrees constantly. It's only a work PC these days for my PhD. Gaming rig is on air.

I bought 2 litres of Feser One when I built this rig about 4 years ago and I still have over a litre left.

Nice article all-round.
Woodspoon 12th March 2012, 13:02 Quote
Little surprised by the lack of a Feser one product in the line up, but other than that nice article.
vampalan 12th March 2012, 13:15 Quote
What's wrong with Feser liquids? Something I missed?
I've been using it in my two different systems, and was wondering why it wasn't on the line up here.
Krikkit 12th March 2012, 13:24 Quote
For those thinking of using de-ionised water + additives, 2.5L of it can be had in your local supermarket for about £2.

My loop isn't for looking at, so I just use water + car coolant additive/corrosion inhibitor. Works a treat.
BrightCandle 12th March 2012, 13:47 Quote
Its extremely unlikely that the liquid actually benefited cooling by 2C delta, something is wrong there.

For many watercoolers the key question is does it split over time? We have had problems with Feser's liquids and others where the colour dye in the liquid deposits itself in the blocks and radiators impacting performance pretty significantly over time. More importantly it damages components, some of which (rads) are very hard to clean after its happened.

Most serious watercoolers these days seem to use coloured tubes and clear liquids. This avoids the problem of the liquid splitting and ensures maximum performance because every additive decreases the purity of the water and decreasing its performance.
Big Elf 12th March 2012, 14:15 Quote
I'll look forward to Mayhem's comments. The basis of all the UV fluids is, I believe, distilled water. By adding dyes, anti-corrosion etc. you're adding 'contaminants' that should adversely effect the thermal performance yet de-ionised is coming out with the worst thermal performance by a significant amount. Something not quite right there.

Edit: The 'gunking' apparently caused by various dyes is more likely to be plasticiser leaching from the tubing and being dyed giving the impression it's the dye that's 'gunked' up.
disturbed13 12th March 2012, 14:29 Quote
Im very interested in the temps of everything from the UV fluids to reg fluids, and distilled/de-ionized water. could you guys also take a look at Mineral Oil? im wondering how well that works or not.
cant wait to read more
Floyd 12th March 2012, 14:39 Quote
After trying a few different coolants and having them stain the heck out of my tubes and clog up my blocks, ive gone distilled with a kill coil and never looked back.
phuzz 12th March 2012, 15:02 Quote
I've been running just distilled water (picked up a big bottle of it from halfords about 10 years ago) in my loop for years with no additives or problems.
I figured that I ought to have some corrosion protection and the clear EK coolant worked out cheaper than a tiny bottle of additive, so that's what I'm running now. No difference in temps.
mayhem 12th March 2012, 16:27 Quote
Hi there. Just a pointer from Mayhems.

The UV red show is a older mix from last year if you would like the latest version to test again then please let us know as the UV aspect of it is much better all so the performance is now so close to water you will be amazed.

The new bottles dont have the old style paper sticker but a Newer plastic covered sticker with bar codes and more information on.

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg13/scaled.php?server=13&filename=redho.jpg&res=medium

You can see even though the bottle is frosted it much better red.

Pics below of all the range of colours.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/594/medyellowgreen.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/857/medpurple.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/804/medoilblack.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/11/medgreen.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/medclearwe.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/medclearblue.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/267/medbloodred.jpg/

Mick
Cyberpower-UK 12th March 2012, 16:32 Quote
Did you test long term stability at high temperatures and acid/basic conditions?
PingCrosby 12th March 2012, 16:49 Quote
I accidentely drank a bottle of Mayhems thinking it was a cocktail at my mates party. My partner didn't sleep for two weeks and just kept shouting ' turn that flamin light off ' at me, and could I as hell get warm.
S1W1 12th March 2012, 18:35 Quote
Quote:
Originally Posted by PingCrosby
I accidentely drank a bottle of Mayhems thinking it was a cocktail at my mates party. My partner didn't sleep for two weeks and just kept shouting ' turn that flamin light off ' at me, and could I as hell get warm.
Taste nice? :D

Very useful article BT- more watercooling articles would be great- as you said on the first page there are a huge range of watercooling products out there at the moment and it can be difficult to choose between them.
A roundup of radiators next week perhaps? :D
Floyd 12th March 2012, 19:36 Quote
If you want color hoses then buy color hoses and just fill with distilled.
I dont see why you would want anything other than just water. It works great and its dirt cheap.
legoman666 12th March 2012, 23:43 Quote
Quote:
but no coolant will remain completely non-conductive

Try mineral oil ;)
CraigWatson 13th March 2012, 14:16 Quote
Any reason why Thermochill EC6 wasn't tested?

Also - this article made me feel old. My first l/c loop was in 2008. That's four years ago. :'(
Siwini 14th March 2012, 03:25 Quote
Umm... Guys, Feser One??

Its the most popular product used today, and yet somehow is missed in this article. Why?
Farfalho 14th March 2012, 13:14 Quote
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parge
I'm interested in using Blue coolant, has anyone found that this reacts well under UV or not?
+1

Bit-tech was only supplied with this coolants, I would also like to see more brands and colour variety but have to wait until more watercooling coolant reviews are released
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